09. Clothing for Winter Camping

Clothes don’t provide heat. The purpose of wearing clothing is to reduce heat loss and retain and maintain your warmth. Think about how you dress: small details make a big difference when the weather is harsh and your energy level is dropping. Clothes should insulate and support the body’s temperature equilibrium. At the same time that our clothing should help to retain heat that the body produces, it should also transport excess moisture and heat away from the skin.

Breathability and wind resistance aren’t the same thing. Breathability represents how much perspiration vapor can escape through a fabric from the inside out, whereas wind resistance measures how easily wind passes from the outside in. These are different properties, it’s possible for a garment to be very air permeable but not very breathable—air could pass right through, while sweat could still bead up inside, leaving you feeling damp and cooled. The opposite is also possible, for example, jacket that blocks wind completely (zero air permeability) but will still let perspiration vapor pass through at a decent rate.

The purpose of clothing is to retain heat that the body produces. The body puts off heat all the time, for better or for worse. This is a natural process, and we lose heat in five ways.

Heat Loss	% Heat Loss	Primary Action	Prevention
Convection	50%	Air is heated when it is in contact with the skin.  The warm air rises up and away from the body.  Wind increases convection.	Wear windproof shells, a hood and a hat to protect your face and head.  Take breaks out of the wind.  Dress appropriately for high wind conditions.
Radiation	30%	Heat in the form of infrared radiation is released as waves.	Insulate with warming materials that trap air and retain heat nearest the body.
Conduction	5%	Heat is conducted by material in contact with the skin.  Metals or water conduct heat rapidly.	Sit and/or sleep on insulated pads off the snow.  Put insulating soles in your boots.  Stay dry and avoid direct contact with metal objects.
Evaporation	5%	Body heat is transferred by perspiration on the surface of the skin and moves away from the body.  Wet skin loses heat rapidly.	Keep dry.  Avoid sweat by adapting clothing to your activity.  Use a wicking base layer that absorbs and transports moisture from the skin.
Respiration	10%	Energy is lost when cold air is inhaled and heated in respiratory passages before reaching your lungs.	Breathing through your nose helps protect your lungs, since the air has more time to warm up before entering the lungs.

 

You have probably heard the phrase “cotton kills”. Cotton is an extremely absorbent fabric. It holds water – like melted snow or sweat – very well for a long period. And the problem is when you work up a sweat, cotton traps it close to your body. Add a little wind and evaporative cooling will happen. It can chill you very quickly to the point you are uncomfortable or potentially hypothermic. Wool or synthetic materials are much better suited to cold weather conditions.

In 2001, the U.S. government started using a more precise way to measure wind chill by testing how quickly people’s skin froze. Twelve volunteers were placed in a chilled wind tunnel. Equipment was stuck to their faces to measure the heat flow from their cheeks, forehead, nose and chin while they walked three miles per hour on a treadmill. One of the things they learned was how quickly frostbite develops on exposed skin. The information collected from the volunteers helped scientists come up with the complicated formula involving wind speed and air temperature to compute wind chill. For example, if the temperature is zero degrees Fahrenheit and the wind is blowing at 15 miles per hour, the wind chill is calculated at 19 degrees below zero. At that wind chill temperature, exposed skin can freeze in 30 minutes.

Computing windchill using the national weather service table

Wind-chill temperature is only defined for temperatures at or below 50 degrees F and wind speeds above 3 mph. Bright sunshine may increase the wind chill temperature by 10 to 18 degrees F. The new Wind Chill Table index:

• Calculates wind speed at an average height of five feet (typical height of an adult human face) based on readings from the national standard height of 33 feet (typical height of an anemometer)
• Is based on a human face model
• Incorporates modern heat transfer theory (heat loss from the body to its surroundings, during cold and breezy/windy days)
• Lowers the calm wind threshold to 3 mph
• Uses a consistent standard for skin tissue resistance
• Assumes no impact from the sun (i.e., clear night sky)

For those wishing a more precise calculation than that provided by the table the NOAA website provides a Wind Chill Calculator where you can enter your exact temperature and wind speed to determine the precise wind chill factor.

An efficient way of dressing in a cold climate is to use layers. This provides a versatile and flexible system that not only protects against cold, wind and wetness, but is also easy to ventilate or modify if you get too hot. The layering principle is divided into three main layers.

• Layer 1. A base layer, worn closest to the body, which transports moisture away from the skin. It is imperative to wick moisture away from the skin, since water conducts heat 25 times more efficiently than air. A base layer in synthetic fibers or wool is superior to cotton, which absorbs moisture and dries poorly. Synthetic fabrics are usually lighter than wool for comparable warmth and are significantly less expensive than wool. Wool feels warmer and less clammy on the skin when damp but takes longer to dry than a synthetic fabric.  Synthetic fabrics wick moisture faster which contributes to a faster drying time but also to chilling in windy conditions.  Wool is significantly better at resisting buildup of body odors than most synthetics.
• Layer 2. A mid-layer that adds extra insulation, and thus retains body heat. In cold weather or if activity level is low, a thicker layer is needed. The purpose of the second layer is to trap insulating air. The more air in the clothes, the better the insulation.
• Layer 3. A wind and water repellent shell that protects against external cooling and retains the warmth created between the inner layers. Modern shell garments release some moisture through their material. During high activity levels, the garments should allow ventilation at the neck, the cuff or at other special openings to increase the release of warm, moist air.
• A fourth layer can be worn during break times or when making camp. Windproof, high loft down or synthetic filled garments are easy to put on over the shell layer.

The layering principle does not apply only to the body in general, but also to the feet, hands and head.

When taking off for a hike during the winter one always has decisions to make. Do I start off wearing extra clothes knowing that in 10 minutes I will have to stop and shed layers? Or do I start off with fewer clothes knowing that, once hiking, I will warm up comfortably. In either case extra clothing will end up in my pack for the majority of the hike. Usually the biggest problem isn’t staying warm while hiking in, it is keeping cool.

Jim, Skip and Matt arrange layers prior to a hike up Kane Mountain.

The chart below describes advantages and disadvantages of popular clothing materials for the three main layers.

Base Materials	Advantages	Disadvantages
Polyester	water repellent and dries quickly, abrasion resistant, non-allergenic	can get smelly & retains body odor
Polypropylene	water repellent, abrasion resistant, non-allergenic, warm when wet	can get smelly and retains body odor
Merino Wool	warm when wet, odor-resistant, natural fiber, accommodates a wide range of temperatures	lesser quality can be itchy to sensitive skin, heavy when wet, not quick drying, more expensive
Silk	comfortable, light, natural fiber, wicks moisture reasonably well	not very durable, not as warm as wool or synthetics
Spandex	non-allergenic, form fitting	can be hot
Mid-layer Materials	Advantages	Disadvantages
Fleece	inexpensive, insulates when wet, dries quickly, non-allergenic, comes in a variety of weights, available in windproof varieties	bulky to pack, heavy when wet
Wool	warm when wet, odor-resistant, natural fiber, accommodates a wide range of temperatures	heavy when wet, not quick drying
Down	excellent warmth-to-weight ratio, lasts a lifetime, natural	expensive, poor insulation when wet, takes forever to dry, special cleaning process required, some people are allergic to down
Synthetic / Poly	non-allergenic, packs light & compact	will lose loft & insulation over time, short lifespan
Shell Materials	Advantages	Disadvantages
Nylon	durable, light, compact, affordable, non-allergenic, can be made windproof & water-resistant	flammable
Gore-Tex	waterproof & breathable, light-weight, multiple uses, durable	expensive, requires maintenance

Winter camping requires covering up from head to toe.  Subsequent sections discuss clothing options for staying comfortable.

There is widespread misconception regarding heat loss through one’s head. You have probablyheard one or more of these myths:

• If your feet are cold, cover your head.
• You can lose up to 75% of your body heat through your head alone.

Although 13-16% of the blood volume is in the head at any given time it is a very exposed structure. The problem is that the head is only about 10% of the body surface area. Thus, the head would have to lose about 40 times as much heat per square inch or centimeter compared to the rest of the body to make the above estimate of heat loss true.

Wilderness Medicine[1] took volunteers, wired them to monitor their core temperatures.  They discovered humans lose heat through any exposed part of the body and the amount of heat humans lose depends on the amount of exposed surface area. The rate of heat loss is relatively the same for any exposed part of the body not simply the head. You do not lose heat significantly faster through the scalp than any other portion of the body with the same surface area. The idea that we lose heat faster throughout scalp because of the constant blood supply to the brain is simply a myth.

Wilderness Medicine reports the cerebral blood flow is constant; blood flow to the brain does not change as the demand for oxygen is constant. As a result, when you look at total heat loss, the head accounts for about 7% of the heat lost. The cerebral blood flow does, however, vary based on cardiac output – the harder your heart beats, the greater the blood flow to the brain.  When you begin to exercise you increase the blood flow to the brain and increase the percentage of heat loss through the head to about 50% of total body heat loss. But as a person continues to exercise, the muscles demand more oxygen which increases blood flow. To ensure thermoregulation and maintain normal core temperature (exercises increases body heat), the skin vasodilates which increases blood flow to the skin to cool the blood. The net result is a decrease in the total blood flow to the brain and a decrease in percentage of total body heat lost through the head to about 10%. Once sweating begins, the percent lost through the scalp returns to 7%.

Research at the Army Research in Environmental Medicine labs showed that there was a temporary increase in heat loss through the scalp that returned to the baseline of 7% as the subjects continued to exercise.

CNN published a set of 10 health myths[2] including heat loss through one’s head: “You Lose 75 Percent of Your Body Heat Through Your Head”. CNN reports the truth is: “This adage was probably based on an infant’s head size, which is a much greater percentage of the total body than an adult head”. That’s why it’s important to make sure an infant’s head remains covered in cold weather. (This also explains those ubiquitous newborn caps at the hospital.) But for an adult, the figure is more like 10 percent. And keep in mind that heat escapes from any exposed area (feet, arms, hands), so putting on a hat is no more important than slipping on gloves.

It is still a good idea to put on a hat if your feet are cold. But what is BUSTED is that there is nothing peculiar or unique about the head. The idea that we lose heat faster throughout scalp, because of the constant blood supply to the brain, is simply a myth.

Fleece or wool hats are good choices. Watch caps or similar close-fitting designs make putting your hood up an easy task. You can stuff damp glove liners into the top of a more spacious hat, and your body heat will dry them out.

Options include a fleece watch cap, a fleece neck gaiter or buff or an insulated cap with ear flaps.

The fleece neck gaiter or buff option uses soft, double-layered brushed acrylic fleece to trap air to keep neck warm.  It can be made into a hat shape that can open further for venting if needed. Fleece dries quickly; insulates even when wet and can provide valuable warmth.

The Columbia Kazoo Hat has become my regular snowshoeing and camping hat. The fleece lined hat provides a baseball cap style brim with long ear flaps. Since I routinely wear glasses the brim is useful not only for shade but also to help keep snow and moisture off my glasses. It has to be a serious wind blast to make me employ the hook and loop closure.

I usually wear the ear flaps loose as the hat fits securely. The long ear flaps keep my ears and neck warm even in a strong wind. The feature I like the most is the ability to temperature control. Unlike a beanie or watch cap the hat can be adjusted to provide more ventilation. As things warm up the ear flaps can be fastened across the back of the hat and gradually raised towards the top of the hat exposing my neck and head as it morphs into a baseball cap. The hat easily packs in a coat pocket, and it is surprisingly light weight for being so warm. I got my hat at the local sporting goods store but a web search revealed a variety of sources including Campmor, Cabelas, Dicks Sporting Goods, Amazon with cost ranging from $12-15.

A balaclava looks like an executioner’s hood and provides full coverage for your head. These leave either your entire face exposed (good for ventilation) or have just an eye slit (warmer). Either way, make sure you buy one that’s long enough so the bottom edge will meet your jacket collar to ward off drafts.

Usually made of neoprene or fleece, this provides crucial protection for your face, which – as it spends all day breaking trail through the wind – is vulnerable to frostbite.

I read this tip in an article by Cliff Jacobson. He routinely brings a large silk scarf on his northern canoe expeditions. I found a large silk bandana to be a versatile item to take winter camping. A silk bandana is not as absorbent as a cotton bandana, but it is a lot stronger, dries faster, rinses out easier and it does not absorb stains the same way. It scrunches up into a smaller package and silk is 1/3rd the weight. It is far superior to cotton for retaining warmth and keeping you dry. It feels smoother against the skin, and is generally more breathable. I have used it primarily as a neck warmer when I am sleeping, but it can be fashioned into a hat, a hood, an emergency sling, an ear warmer, a first phase water filter or any number of items.

Gloves provide a covering for individual fingers, but wearers do not derive much benefit from natural body heat. While gloves have separate coverings for four fingers and the thumb, mittens have one covering for all of the fingers and one for the all important opposable thumb. Mittens thus provide a pocket of warmth over the four fingers, but wearers often suffer from a lack of dexterity.

If keeping all fingers warm during winter activities is a priority then mittens are usually considered preferable to gloves. If hand mobility is a priority, then gloves provide much more articulation than mittens.

Mittens are generally warmer than gloves (given the same material) because gloves have a higher surface area than mittens (due to the fact they have individual fingers). This means that the heat from your body dissipates into the air more quickly and it feels colder.

Double-layer woodsman’s mittens (known as choppers and mittens) have been a winter staple for generations. They’re tough enough for chopping wood, hunting, ice fishing and outdoor chores, and great for sledding and cold-weather hikes.

Traditionally the outer shell or chopper is made of strong, supple leather that resists wind, wear and water. The mitten insert provides insulation and warmth. The mitten inserts should fit inside the choppers and give a loose fit when your hands are inside. A tight fit cuts off the circulation of warm blood and can lead to frostbite and other cold injuries.

Shown below are three variations of choppers and mittens. On the left is shown a traditional style consisting of a rugged leather chopper with a hand knitted mitten insert. On the right are lighter weight deer hide choppers with a loose fleece mitten insert.

Choppers and mittens are a warm choice for winter camping.

Finally, the choppers below are made of a waterproof Gore-Text shell with wrist closures and dense fleece mitten inserts. These choppers are longer with cuffs that extend to mid-arm.

Modern choppers are made of cordura and fleece materials

One advantage of choppers and mittens is the ability to substitute various mitten inserts as mittens get damp due to sweat or to increase hand warmth. For extended outings carry at least two full sets of wool mittens. In a pinch you can also substitute extra wool socks for wool mitten inserts.

Thick fleece mitten inserts can be carried as spares

Finally, one can also use a hybrid system with light glove liners inside of choppers. This enables the choppers to be removed when increased dexterity is required, yet keeping your hands covered.

Light glove inserts can be coupled with choppers.

 9.6      Jackets

Remember the sweat that your base layer is supposed to wick? That aerobic moisture is moving away from your body, and it needs to escape. If the outer shell isn’t extremely breathable, it will trap that moisture. It can even freeze. You need a soft shell to really get rid of all that aerobic moisture you generate.

What’s a soft shell? It’s a style of fabric that’s softer than a traditional rain shell. This fabric is woven in a way that will block wind but breathe. It’s treated to be water-resistant so it repels water from snow. Some promise protection in a light rain. And as the name suggests, it’s soft enough to move with your body, and it’s comfortable. It’s the successor to wind-block fleece.

Wind-block fleece is 250 percent warmer than traditional fleece. It has excellent breathability but isn’t designed to be waterproof. The soft shells have the water resistance.

Should you wear a hard-shell or soft-shell jacket? BackPacker Magazine’s Gear Chick Kris Hostetter recently posted an answer to the Hard-shell versus Soft-shell Jacket question.

“It’s not technically the temperature that determines what type of shell is best (warmth is provided by what you wear underneath your shell), but several different factors: precipitation; your level of exertion and breathability requirements; and your weight and pack-ability requirement.

She writes “Here’s the deal: When do I pack a hard-shell? On any day trip where rain is a possibility. On any multiday backpacking trip—period. When weight is a big concern, I’ll always opt for the rock solid weather protection of a hard-shell—which is always lighter and more packable than a soft-shell. Hard-shells are made using a tightly woven face fabric that’s either laminated to a waterproof/breathable membrane—such as Gore-Tex or eVent—or sprayed with a waterproof/breathable microporous coating. For way more details on the differences between these two types of hard-shells, check out this article from our Oct. 2009 issue.

When do I wear a soft-shell? When you’re skiing, snowshoeing, or doing anything outside in the winter. All soft-shells have a DWR (durable waterproof coating) that repels light precipitation, like snow or drizzle, and for winter sports, when hard-shells can get so crinkly and loud, it’s nice to wear a quiet soft-shell.  I’ll also go for a soft-shell when I’m biking or running. Or on a daytrip when weight and pack space are not big concerns. Soft-shells are made using stretch woven face fabrics. Most soft-shells are not waterproof (see below)—they block the wind and provide way better breathability than hard-shells. And because the fabric is soft and stretchy, they often fit really well and have a totally styling’ look for around town.”

Backcountry.com’s soft shell jacket buyer’s guide that provides information on the different options a buyer should consider before purchasing a soft shell. Soft shells are great for the edge seasons of winter camping. They can be considered heavy when compared to a down or synthetic jacket if you are just seeking warmth.

Soft-shells emerged when people wanted something to bridge the gap between waterproof hard-shells and highly breathable fleeces. The soft-shell sought to be the best of both worlds. These jackets range from heavyweight and waterproof to ultralight and ultra-breathable, so chances are you can find the right one for to help you stay dry and comfortable in a wide range of weather conditions and outdoor activities. Soft-shells are more breathable than a hard-shell; more wind- and water-resistant than a fleece and can make for a lighter system as you may not need additional insulation.

While many stretch-woven soft-shells hold off a good amount of moisture, they can only be considered water resistant. Soft-shells with membranes offer waterproof protection that rivals top-shelf hard-shells. However, the pores in these membranes are slightly larger than those in waterproof shells, so they breathe better. Basically, they’re waterproof in about any condition except for a full-on monsoon. Soft-shells with membranes are waterproof. Stretch-woven soft-shells are water resistant.

It’s hard to distinguish between stretch-woven and membrane soft-shells, but this may be the most-important factor for choosing. Membrane-equipped soft-shells offer greater weather protection at the expense of breath-ability; stretch-woven fabrics breathe better for aerobic activities, but don’t protect as well. So how do you tell them apart? The easiest way is by looking at the fabric.

Type	Summary	Materials	Advantages	Disadvantages
Stretch Woven Softshells	These jackets shed wind and water thanks to the tightness of the fabric’s weave. Most stretch-woven jackets keep you dry in pretty brutal snow or moderate rain, but eventually moisture will win out and you’ll start to get a bit wet. However, if you’re working hard, your body heat drives out the moisture, so you probably won’t get totally soaked as long as you’re moving.	Schoeller, Nylon or polyester, Polartec Power Shield, Apex Aerobic & Apex ClimateBlock (The North Face), M2, & M3 (Marmot), TufStretch (Mountain Hardwear)	Highest breath-ability for aerobic activities.Generally very lightweight.Good weather resistance with excellent wicking.Can be used as a mid layer under your hard-shell.	Not completely waterproof.Sometimes not completely windproof.Not as lightweight as comparable fleece.
Membrane Softshells	Just like hard-shells, these jackets feature a waterproof breathable membrane for weather protection. The difference is that membrane soft-shells use a slightly looser weave for increased breathability. Keep in mind that “looser” is measured in this case on a microscopic level. These jackets will hold off hours of horrendous downpour. It has to be a full-on monsoon to soak through a soft-shell with a membrane	Gore-Tex Soft Shell, Gore-Tex WindStopper, Ventia (Outdoor Research), Conduit (Mountain Hardwear), Omni-Tech (Columbia), Polartec Windbloc or Marmot M1	More waterproof than stretch-woven soft-shells.More breathable than hard-shell jackets.Versatility to take on nearly any condition.	Not as breathable as stretch-woven soft-shells.Generally heavier than stretch-woven soft-shells.Not quite as waterproof as a full-on hard-shell.

Get a stretch woven softshell jacket if…

• You do a lot of highly aerobic activities like trail running or back country touring.
• Get out on very cold days with lots of fluffy snow but minimal slush or rain.
• Want to use your soft-shell in place of a fleece to layer under a waterproof shell.

Get a membrane softshell if…

• You are more concerned with weather protection than breathability or aerobic comfort.
• You get out on relatively warm days where slushy snow and rain are likely.
• Tend to spend blocks of time sitting still (such as on a ski lift or belaying an ice climb).

When your body gets cold  the flow of blood to your arms, legs and feet will be reduced in order to maintain both the heat level and the blood flow in the head and vital organs. Many problems with the feet are related to lack of ventilation. Shoes made with excessively impermeable materials, and socks with high synthetic fiber content conspire to prevent the foot’s perspiration from evaporating. The foot first gets damp, and then cold. A foot secretes about 2 oz of water every day. During vigorous activities this quantity is multiplied.

To avoid cold feet, it is imperative that moisture is quickly wicked away from the foot. Socks made of cotton grow wet quickly and conduct heat from the feet, leaving you feeling cold. Winter shoes and boots should be large enough so that you can add an extra sock to absorb the moisture and keep your feet warm. Avoid cramped boots and don’t tighten your boots too much, such that blood circulation may be hindered and your feet

Your boots should have waterproof outer shells such as oiled leather or plastic. Even though fabric and leather boots have Gore-tex linings, the outer layers will absorb water which will eventually freeze, placing a block of ice next to your foot.

Your feet will sweat during the day and left unattended at night the moisture in your boots will freeze at night creating stiff, cold, uncomfortable boots to put on in the morning. Your alternatives are to wear boots with liners that you remove. If you are hot tenting you can dry the liners out over the wood stove.  Otherwise keep in your sleeping bag at night to keep them from freezing and maybe dry them out a bit.  For a short camping trip the amount of moisture transferred into your sleeping bag will minimal.

Alternatively, you can use a “vapor barrier” to keep the insulating layers dry.  Vapor barrier socks or a thin plastic bag is worn between the skin of the foot and the socks. A rubber band or duct tape can be used to hold the vapor barrier up.  The vapor barrier improves the effectiveness of the insulating layers by isolating the moisture coming from the skin.

It may not seem intuitive, but wearing two pair of socks is an effective method for wicking moisture away from your feet to keep your feet warm and prevent blisters. Not two hiking socks, but rather a synthetic or wool liner and a thick synthetic or wool outer sock.

• Liner Socks: Wearing a liner sock is a great trick to prevent blisters on the trail. They are very thin socks, and generally are made of wool, silk, or synthetic materials to wick away moisture.
• Hiking Socks: Your thick hiking socks are the outer layer, and provide cushion and insulation. The main thing you need to remember is that they must be synthetic or wool, so they wick moisture away from your feet.

Over time, you may have established a collection of socks, to suit various hiking needs.  I wear thinner hiking socks for summer day hikes, thicker for backpacking trips when my feet want more cushioning, and super thick mountaineering socks when I’m snowshoeing. My favorites are the SmartWool socks, such as Light Hiking Socks for day hikes and Mountaineering socks when around in camp.

Gaiters are important for keeping snow from slipping in-between your pants and the top of your boots. Snow gaiters can keep both your pants and feet dry when you snowshoe in the deep stuff.

Gaiters for snowshoeing are usually longer than hiking gaiters and typically extend up near the knees. They are made of thicker material and are highly water repellent.  Because the user may want to make adjustments while wearing gloves or mittens they usually have easily manipulated snaps and/or Velcro to secure them on top of your leg and boots.

When you shop for gaiters make sure your snow gaiters have a means of securing them at the top such that you can keep the gaiters cinched around your leg. The last thing you want is your gaiters sliding down your calves!

Look for gaiters with cords or straps that are replaceable. You want your gear to be useful for many years. If there is a strap or cord that runs below your boot it will eventually wear out. Get gaiters where you can easily replace those straps or cords.

How to tell if you’ve got authentic snowshoeing boots? Look for a little lip on the heel. This extension keeps the rear binding from slipping down over your heel. It performs a similar function if you wear a traction device such as ice cleats. Do your boots have one?

These shoes show snow shoe heel lips.

NEOS overboots options for winter camping

New England Over Shoes (NEOS) have several models of light weight 500 Denier Cordura nylon overshoes with a snow shoe compatible heel and a Vibram sole. They make both insulated and un-insulated versions. The overshoes add 20F to everyday footwear and the insulated models add 40F. The most suitable models are the Voyager (11″), Adventurer (15″) and Trekker (20″).

NEOS are 100% waterproof which means that they don’t breathe very well. They have a Velcro closure secured by a strap and a quick release buckle. They are very adaptable – you can wear them over a variety of footwear: boots, sneakers, felt liners, down booties or even Crocs.

They are easy to put on as they open up to huge proportions. Due to the ease of getting on and off they make excellent camp footwear. There is nothing easier to get on and off for a quick trip out of the tent late at night.

I had NEOS Voyager’s (un-insulated, 2lbs, 11″ high) for a number of years. I have used them snowshoeing on day hikes with felt liners inside. In deep snow the 11″ height permitted some snow to leak in. If I was picking again I think I would go for the taller Adventurer or even the Trekker model. But they were light, warm and comfortable….as the man says “Did I mention they are light?”

Mukluks are soft boots made from leather or canvas designed for specifically for cold weather. Mukluks are characterized by two primary features: flexibility and breathability.  In a mukluk your feet flex, move and roll and result in more warmth giving blood.  The breathability of mukluks precludes moisture from building up inside the boot.  Conversely, the boots are not waterproof and should be protected from slush and water.

Once in camp it is a treat to put on dry socks and warm footwear.  Keeping your feet warm plays an important role in maintaining a comfortable temperature. Down booties are super lightweight above the ankle booties made with a nylon outer shell fabric and a adjustable draw closure. They are usually made of 650 – 800 fill goose down or Primaloft insulation and are light (~6 ounces) and compressible so you can easily carry them in your pack. Sizes are a loose range so they may be slightly loose or slightly snug on your foot.  Down booties are usually worn over socks and may be worn inside of overboots.

While hiking and setting up camp you’ll be working and keeping warm. But sometime after those chores the activity level drops and you’ll need to put on dry, warmer clothing before you chill. The wetter you are and the colder it is the more important it is to change your clothes – all of them.

A typical winter camping scenario involves snowshoeing into your prospective campsite and working up a sweat on the way.  Once the campsite has been determined the changing begins with a dry base liner and an insulating layer.  Ensure your feet stay warm by putting on thicker dry socks. If you have the opportunity to air out and dry your wet clothes begin the process.

Only once you are warm and dry should you start assembling your shelter, getting fire wood, or cooking a meal.  Don’t wait and get cold before you decide to change your clothes.

 

Finding tall clothing suitable for winter camping is difficult.

I have to buy tall clothing. There is a paucity of vendors that sell quality outdoor gear in truly tall sizes. Patagoni doesn’t anymore. REI’s interpretation of tall leaves a lot to be desired. I have had the best luck getting outdoor gear through LLBean and BeyondClothing.

I have found two items from Sahalie that fit well, their Alpenite Jacket and pants. I got my jacket from Sahalie after seeing how well it fit my taller nephew. The burnt orange color was on sale. I guess it would provide high visibility if we fell off the dog sled and were laying in the snow awaiting rescue.

One trick is to buy shirts with palm covers and thumb holes.  The extra fabric will provide additional sleeve length.

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